Rear camera for my Chevy Volt
Installing and wiring an aftermarket rear camera on my Chevy Volt.Camera
1920x1080 170-degree camera with AHD and CVBS (composite video) output, purchased on eBay.
1. Mount the camera
Easier than expected.First, unclip the left license plate light. There is a direct path to the trunk behind it. (Which will be covered in the next section) Also, it is easier to handle camera's cables through the license plate light openings.
To mount this specific camera, drill a hole in the middle of the bumper overhang above the license plate, and screw the camera into the plastic. You might not need the split metal nut that came with the camera. Thread the cables through the left license plate light opening.
Note: The camera's cables get coiled and twisted while screwing it in. To prevent that, I turned the camera counter-clockwise about 15 times before screwing it in, purposely twisting the cables the other way, so the cables straighten back out when the camera is fully in. I had to take off the license plate since it was in a way of the camera when I was screwing it in.
Done!
2. Run cables from the bumper into the trunk
Conveniently, there is a small hole with a plastic plug between the space behind the rear bumper and the trunk's interior.Disassembly
Flip the rear seats down.Remove the trunk floor: Open it, pull upwards to undo the 2 clips towards the front of the car, and then detach the velcro from the back of the seats.
On the rear panel in the trunk, pry away the two anchor covers.
Pry away the rear panel - it is held by clips and should be easy to remove. The result should look like this.
Look at the driver side cavity behind the rear part of the trunk. The plug is there.
The best idea is to drill a hole through the plug and run the cable through that. However, the plug can be easily pushed out, which I accidentally did.
Routing
Carefully route the cable through the cavity above the license plate light into the plug/hole and into the trunk space. Long tweezers or a piece of rigid wire might help.
License plate light can be put back in.
Done!
3. Run cables to the front and power the camera
It is possible to splice the reverse lamp power for the camera, but AFAIK that requires taking off the rear bumper or the bottom protector. I went a different way and connected the power to the 12V "cigarette" socket between the rear seats.There are several ways to run the cables from the rear bumper to the front, but this is the way I did it.
Disassembly
Most panels are held by clips, which makes them easy to pop off and re-attach.Middle console between the rear seats is attached by three hex-head screws, but the front part is just clips.
The panel on the back of the elbow compartment is held by four clips.
The container in the elbow compartment can be simply pulled up and out.
The panel on the right side of the driver's footwell (left side of the radio) pops off easily.
Routing
Behind the rear panel of the trunk, around the driver side of the trunk floor panel
Around the driver side of trunk floor panel, between the rear seats.
Between the rear seats, under the panel. I re-used a previously-broken 12V socket to power the camera, but it should be possible to splice the 12V cable too. The video cable continues into the elbow compartment between the front seats.
Partially through the elbow compartment, then outside under the panel on the driver side.
Under the trim of the shifter console on the driver side, exiting behind the driver side pillar of the radio.
This is where my first cable ends, since I plan to switch the signal. You can stop here, or continue routing the cable up to the compartment above the radio.
It's always a good idea to test that the camera works and that your connections are good before re-assem
Once this part is complete, all of the panels in the front, rear, and trunk can be re-attached.
Done!
4. Run video cable to the compartment above the radio
This requires minor cutting, drilling, or filing to make good exits for the video cable.Disassembly
Pop off the U-shaped piece around the shifter.
Unscrew the two 7mm bolts holding the radio. Do not confuse them with another set of 7mm screws that are a bit lower.
Pull the radio out. It is still attached by a lot of wires, so be careful.
The top compartment is held by another pair of 7mm bolts behind the radio. They are at a very awkward angle, and you have to be careful not to drop them into the radio innards.
After the bolts are removed, the upper compartment can be moved. Close the lid, lift the front, then pull back. The 12V socket and hinges extend a few inches behind the compartment.
Now you should be ready to route the video cable.
Routing
On the back of the left column, cut a notch to fit the video cable. The plastic is very soft and easy to cut with a fine-tooth saw or even a utility knife. Route the video cable into the column.
Route the video cable up along the cavity. (I did not get a good picture, but there is plenty of space there)
On the top, route the video cable through the middle opening in front of the compartment.
Cut a notch into the back of the compartment. I used a small round file. You might need to cut the tab behind the compartment, too, depending on the thickness of the cable.
Route the video cable under the compartment, through the notch, and into the compartment.
Re-attach the compartment with two 7mm bolts.
Slide the radio back in (align the bottom columns carefully).
Re-attach the radio with two 7mm bolts.
Pop the U-shaped cover back onto the bottom of the radio and around the shifter.
Done!
5. Install the display
Any display that supports composite video should work. My camera can produce AHD (analog high definition) signal, but I am not aware of (or have) any displays that support it.I still have to print and install an enclosure for the LCD that I have.
Results
Two video cables that will be used by the input switcher.
Video cable and 12V power ready for the display.
